There seems to be magic in the very sound of its name. The Nirona village in the Kutch District of Gujarat state in India is unique, and its claim to fame lies in the fact that it nurtures some unique arts and crafts. These arts and crafts are part of the rich heritage of Kutch, they are skills that have been handed down from generation to generation, and are being carefully nurtured.

Nirona Village Kutch, Gujarat | Nirona Village Kutch – Rogan Art, Copper Bell and Lacquer Art

Friendly glances and smiles greet us as we walk through the Nirona village in our quest to know more about this arts and crafts hub of Kutch District. The famed Gujarati hospitality reflects on the faces of every individual that we meet on the street. Kids wave at us in glee, and old women smile warmly, as we make our way to the first of the three places that are part of our Nirona village itinerary.

Nirona Location | Nirona Village in Nakhatrana (Kachchh) Gujarat

Click here for directions to reach Nirona Village from Bhuj.

Nirona Village,
Nirona,
Bhuj 370001.
India

Lacquer Art of Nirona Village Kutch, Gujarat

A short walk in the dusty lanes and bylanes of the Nirona village brought is to a small house where the family practised the colourful lacquer art. A goat looked with interest at our camera and even posed for a picture, while a kid with a stick in his hand, looked curiously at the group of visitors to his sleepy village.

Lacquerware is believed to be one of the oldest arts and has flourished in India, Japan, and China. The salient features of this art are the vibrant colours and fine finish it gives to the finished products. The products range from furniture to the humble rolling pin, and much more. In India Lacquerware dates back to more than 400-500 years and is mentioned in the “Ain-i-Akbari ” of Abul Fazl that was written in the late 16th century. The famous Channapatna Toys of Karnataka are another beautiful example of Lacquer Art in India, and the art with Persian roots may have arrived in Kutch before Tipu Sultan patronized it in Karnataka.

The workshop of lacquerware that we visited was a riot of colours filled with multi-coloured rolling pins. The artisan deftly applied lacquer onto wooden sticks while it rotated. The workshop used manual means to practise their craft. The tools are hand made by the artisans themselves. A simple contraption to hold the wood and rotate it with a belt is used. The artisan then applies the lacquer with precision and dexterity. What emerges are articles of everyday use that assume a beautiful avatar with their vibrant colours and delicate finish.

The Mellifluous Copper Bells of Nirona Village Kutch, Gujarat

A wizened man with a flowing white beard sat on the steps of a small shop that looked out to what was the village square in Nirona. “Copper Bell Art,” says a board above the shop’s door. The sweet peal of bells greeted us as we squeezed into the small shop.

The walls of the shop were choc-a-bloc with copper bells of all sizes. Some were tiny, some were big, and others were strung together in a group of melodious chimes. But what really entranced us was the sweet notes that emerged from the bells. There were bells for cattle, and each bell had a different note, a feature that acted like an identification tag for a particular cow or buffalo.

It is interesting to note that the origins of the unique art of copper bell making date back to over 1000 years to what was then the Sindh region, now in Pakistan. The bell making emerged as a means to keep track of cattle. Though over the years the art has evolved into more decorative purposes. We learned that the bells are made in as many as 13 different sizes, based on the animals that are going to wear them. What is really fascinating is that each bell can be customized with a choice of about 6 different notes.

As we left the small shop of one of the bell makers of Nirona, the sweet melody of the bells resonated in our minds.

Esoteric Rogan Art of Nirona Village Kutch, Gujarat

The jewel in the crown of Nirona village is arguably its esoteric Rogan Art, which is practised today by one family in the village, as informed to us. The exquisite art which lay on the brink of extinction received a fillip when Prime Minister Narendra Modi carried with him a beautiful handcrafted Rogan painting to the US in 2014. The exquisite example of Rogan art was a gift to the then US President Barach Obama.

Rogan Art has come a long way, travelling from Sindh where it originated to the halls of the Whitehouse in America. The art was introduced to the Kutch region by the Rao’s of Kutch, more than 400 years ago. They were great patrons of art and encouraged Rogan art. The art was practised by the Sindhi Khatri community in Nirona, where it thrived. However, with the passage of time, the art lost its patronage and was on the decline. But today the unique art is on a revival path, thanks to interest generated by the Rann Utsav, as well as recognition at the highest levels.

Gafur Bhai (Padma Shri AbdulGafur Khatri ji ) stands with the hint of a smile on his face, his eyes shining bright. His humility belies the fact that he is the recipient of the Padma Shri (2019), and numerous national and state awards. The awards that line the wall are a silent testimony to his art. Today his sons and others in the family keep the torch of Rogan art burning brightly.

Rogan art Nirona traces its origins to ancient Persia. The process requires a lot of skill and patience. It involves the boiling of castor oil at a constant temperature for around 12 hours. After this, the residue is mixed with cold water and the result is a gooey and sticky substance which is called Rogan. This paste is then mixed with different vegetable dyes and then using a thin stick or pin, intricate designs are painted on fabric. Once it is dry, it gives the impression of embroidery work, while actually, it is fabric painting.

The fabric with Rogan artwork is used on gran bridal gowns, sarees, wall hangings, stoles, dress material, etc. One of the most famous Rogan artwork created by Gafur Bhai is the “Tree of Life,” which were presented in two versions to Barack Obama, one in red and one in green.

The Nirona village in Kutch is a standing testimony to the rich treasures of Indian art and craft that have withstood the passage of time and shine with lustre on the Indian firmament.

Watch our Nirona Village Tour Video

Nirona Village Video

We hope you liked reading about Nirona- The Handicraft Village, the hub of exquisite arts and crafts of the Kutch region in Gujarat, India. Please do subscribe to our blog and follow us on our social media channels for more interesting stories on various aspects of lifestyle, heritage, travel, and culture.

Our visit to Gujarat was part of a familiarization trip organized by the Ministry of Tourism, Government of India and Gujarat Tourism under the #DekhoApnaDesh initiative. The views and opinions expressed in this blog post are our own.
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